what are good ideas for fireplace outback to sit around at night and parties i was thinking a custom one out of brick with a cement pad pourd in the ground 3×3 then 4 pillars out of brick 3' high then going into a small chiminey just my idea any ways to make better ?
I've been in the masonry buisiness for 21 years, and I've built many backyard BBQ's and Fireplaces.
The best way to start is have a plan, which it sounds like you do. Put it down on paper like a blueprint. Have atleast two different elevational views. Include footings below ground. The footing should be 12'' thick and 4 - 6'' wider than the structure on each side. In a warm weather climate you don't have to bury the footing deep, it can be just below the surface but low enough so you can plant landscape over the footing. In a colder area, you need to get below the frost line, which will be considerably deeper. If you do not do this your structure will not last more that a winter or two, maybe four. Check your local city standards on the internet for basic codes on retaining walls and such.
After the planning stage, dig your footings and put together a rebar grid to bury in the footing. Usually #4 rebar (Each number represents 1/8'' so #4 is half inch and #5 is 5/8'', etc, etc). Space the bars in a grid pattern 12'' in each direction horizontally, and stay 3'' away from either side or bottom of the footing. Use tie wire to keep them together. Next you need vertical rebar extending 20'' minumum above the footing into the masonary structure at each corner and every 2' in between, and atleast 6'' into the footing with a minumum 4'' hook at the end into the concrete. Cut lengths appropriate to acomodate the previous description (20'' + 6 + 4''). Assemble your steel grid prior to mixing and pouring the concrete.
Go to the local Lowe's or Home Depot and get enough bags of 2500 psi premix concrete to pour the footing and then get 4 extra bags for grouting. Read directions and mix in a rented concrete mixer. You must mechanically mix the concrete because you can't mix by hand fast enough to get the correct consistancy and air entrainment. Mix it wet enough to give yourself some time to get it into the hole.
The vertical bars that you placed out of the footing should protrude through the cells of the CMU (Plan this in the begining stages). CMU are typically 16'' long with 1 1/2'' walls so you want the rebar ceneted in each cell. Then as you build the walls fill these cells with mortar or concrete, and extend the rebar overlapping the previous piece as you go.
The most difficult part of this project is getting the brick, block and or stone level, plumb and square. It takes years of practice, so take your time, use a level and a tape measure.
If you take your time, do the research and plan correctly, this will be the accomplishment that you are dreaming of.
March 30th, 2008 at 8:44 am
Too much work, they have these really neat patio/deck fireplaces in your local stores Walmart-Home Depot and Lowes
All shapes and sizes
References :
March 30th, 2008 at 9:14 am
The first good idea is to check with the local fire dept.to insure that you can use it before you build it.You do not need the chimney,just a fire pit lined with fire bricks.You can put stone or bricks on the outside.
References :
pyromaniac
March 30th, 2008 at 9:25 am
Stack brick in interweaving pattern on concrete pad or on packed and leveled earth without mortar in size and scale that fits your needs. We scaled ours to accommodate a large BBQ grill to use when we have bigger than usual groups for summer parties. With the back wall of the stacked brick fireplace at about 36 inches, the smoke is not a problem for those sitting around the fire — a pleasant way to end an evening.
Stacking bricks without mortar gives you the flexibility to reposition if need be. Ours survived Loma Prieta without a problem.
References :
March 30th, 2008 at 10:31 am
I've been in the masonry buisiness for 21 years, and I've built many backyard BBQ's and Fireplaces.
The best way to start is have a plan, which it sounds like you do. Put it down on paper like a blueprint. Have atleast two different elevational views. Include footings below ground. The footing should be 12'' thick and 4 - 6'' wider than the structure on each side. In a warm weather climate you don't have to bury the footing deep, it can be just below the surface but low enough so you can plant landscape over the footing. In a colder area, you need to get below the frost line, which will be considerably deeper. If you do not do this your structure will not last more that a winter or two, maybe four. Check your local city standards on the internet for basic codes on retaining walls and such.
After the planning stage, dig your footings and put together a rebar grid to bury in the footing. Usually #4 rebar (Each number represents 1/8'' so #4 is half inch and #5 is 5/8'', etc, etc). Space the bars in a grid pattern 12'' in each direction horizontally, and stay 3'' away from either side or bottom of the footing. Use tie wire to keep them together. Next you need vertical rebar extending 20'' minumum above the footing into the masonary structure at each corner and every 2' in between, and atleast 6'' into the footing with a minumum 4'' hook at the end into the concrete. Cut lengths appropriate to acomodate the previous description (20'' + 6 + 4''). Assemble your steel grid prior to mixing and pouring the concrete.
Go to the local Lowe's or Home Depot and get enough bags of 2500 psi premix concrete to pour the footing and then get 4 extra bags for grouting. Read directions and mix in a rented concrete mixer. You must mechanically mix the concrete because you can't mix by hand fast enough to get the correct consistancy and air entrainment. Mix it wet enough to give yourself some time to get it into the hole.
The vertical bars that you placed out of the footing should protrude through the cells of the CMU (Plan this in the begining stages). CMU are typically 16'' long with 1 1/2'' walls so you want the rebar ceneted in each cell. Then as you build the walls fill these cells with mortar or concrete, and extend the rebar overlapping the previous piece as you go.
The most difficult part of this project is getting the brick, block and or stone level, plumb and square. It takes years of practice, so take your time, use a level and a tape measure.
If you take your time, do the research and plan correctly, this will be the accomplishment that you are dreaming of.
References :
Personal experience
March 30th, 2008 at 11:08 am
There are some really easy DIY outside fireplaces that are preassembled and come on a pallet.
Check out http://www.bolp.com/
They have both fireplaces and outdoor kitchens that are easy to assemble and look great. They are available throuh BBQ Galore and through contractors who can build them for you (John Deere Landscapes can recomend a good contractor)
References :